Choose Your Own Adventure! Self-Guided Gluten Free Walk Through Shuk HaCarmel - Birthright Edition

Prepare for sensory overload.

The first time I had ever been in a Shuk or anything like it was when I went on Birthright, and my first Shuk was HaCarmel. It was an overwhelming mess of colors, noise, and of course lots and lots of people! We had exactly an hour and a half on our own there and had NO IDEA where to go, what to do, and what to look at. The time flew by and before we knew it we were back on the bus.

But now the Shuk is my everyday grocery store! And while I learn new things about it every day, I've got a pretty good handle on what it has to offer the Gluten Free traveler or resident. So "follow" me through, and get the most out of your time there! (PS there is a handy map at the end!)

First, Pick Your Path!

Are you a Tourist or Resident with more than a few hours? Or, are you a Birthright Participant who has a very limited amount of time?

Depending on what your time frame is really changes the way to experience the culinary offerings of the Shuk...so first up:

The Birthright Path

Baruch Haba le'Israel! Let's get started. You only have an hour to an hour and a half here in Shuk HaCarmel, so prepare to move if you want to get the most out of the experience. You're going to be distracted by all the trinkets and the loud sellers hawking their wares, but don't stop moving! Follow the map and eat your heart out! This is one time when you'll be able to really sample the amazing foods that Israel has to offer without being afraid of your allergy! So, let's get started.

First, determine where you are. Did your bus drop you off on Allenby, the East side of the Shuk? Or are you entering from the bus lot on the West end which is Daniel/Kalischer Street ?(The streets literally change names at their intersection with HaCarmel). Most Birthright tours start at the West end, so I'm going to run my scenario from there. However, if you enter from Allenby, just do it in reverse. Also, when you go to the Shuk on Birthright, you'll definitely be there at a very busy hour. Traversing through the relatively short Shuk will take you longer than you think, but you should have plenty of time to follow my advice if you don't make any other stops along the way.

Alright - Yalla! Let's go!

1) Start at the entrance of the Market and head East up HaCarmel street (the main market thoroughfare). You will be tempted to stop and look around and buy stuff but DON'T! You'll have plenty more time to do this along your trip and you'll be in another market like this one in Jerusalem. Your first stop should be not too far into Shuk on your right side at the Grocery store Nitzat Haduvdevan (ניצת הדובדבן) at HaCarmel St 30. Run to the back left corner of the small store to the frozen section. Pick up a bag of GreenLite Gluten free (ללא גלוטן) Pita's to have with you for the rest of your trip, and maybe even a GreenLite Gluten Free Challah if you want that too!

2) Head back into the Shuk's main isle and fight your way through the throngs to emerge out at the other end by Allenby Street. Cross Allenby to the other side of the street (you'll find yourself right in front of an Aroma, Israel's Starbucks) and turn left. Make the next right at Tchernichovsky Street and get ready to make a tough decision. Falafel or Sabich?

3) Right next to each other, at Tchernichovsky 1 and 2 are Falafel Banin and Sabich Tchernichovsky. Take a minute to read the articles I have on them to help you with your decision. There is no wrong decision here - they are equally delicious! If you've got a good appetite (or are willing to eat half of each and throw the rest out, they don't keep well unfortunately), or you've got a GF friend or someone willing to share with you, get both! However, both places take a little extra time to make the Gluten Free varieties (about 10 minutes of waiting). My advice? Call ahead to Falafel Banin to let him know you want some GF Falafel (he speaks perfect English) at +972 3 5255434. Then when you get there order your Gluten Free Sabich and eat your ready Falafel while you wait. If you want both that is!

So now that you're stuffed to the gills let's go eat something else.

4) Cross the street back towards the Shuk at the intersection of Tchernichovsky and Allenby. Walk past Little Prague on your way South toward the Allenby Entrance to the Shuk. Very shortly on your right, at the orange lotto booth on the sidewalk, you'll see...

HaMalabia

5) HaMalabia serves my favorite Malabi in the city. For more information on this delicious Middle Eastern dessert, click on the name! Get your Malabi to go (they also speak perfect English here) and enjoy it on the bus! (They also offer a vegan version made with Soy).

So now what? You've had lunch and dessert and you're bound to be super full. How much time do you have left?

If you have 15 minutes or less:

6) Return into the Shuk via the Allenby Entrance (just across the crosswalk pictured above). Traverse your way through the crowded Shuk to get back to your bus on time. There are some side streets that are faster than going through the Shuk by about 5 minutes, but they are winding and require a bunch of turns and knowing the area, so it really is just best to try to go straight through.

If you have 30 minutes:

A) If you want some coffee you have two options. Aroma, right across the street from HaMalabia is your safest bet. Their Ice Coffee's (similar to a frappuccino) taste like nothing but Israeli's and tourists are crazy for them. Cofix down the street is cheaper and tastes so much better, but it's going to take you 7 minutes to walk there, so it depends how much time you have. Aroma will hit the spot if you need some caffeine! But if you've got the time and motivation, head South down Allenby, cross the street again to the Aroma side and get yourself to Cofix! Everything there (and I mean everything!) is 5 Shekels. My favorites? Either an "Ice Café" (frappuccino), Tapuz-Gezzer (Orange/Carrot Juice), or an Americano. Most people get an "Afuch" (Cappuccino). The workers in both Aroma and Cofix are generally young and always speak English though :) The above picture isn't of the Cofix I'm mentioning, but they all look the same withe the black and white awning.

B) If you want second dessert you can head to Arte Glideria on Nahalat Binyamin Street, basically parallel to the Shuk. Head back towards the entrance to the Shuk, but instead of turning into the main aisle, continue slightly past it and take a slight right onto the cobblestoned street of Nahalat Binyamin. After a few minutes of walking you'll see the Gelato shop on your left. At Arte, all their flavors except 1 are gluten free, and they also offer gluten free cones! (And vegan options too!) You can return to the main aisle of the Shuk by heading down HaShomer Street and turning left when you hit the main isle. However - if it is a Tuesday or a Friday it may take a little more time to get there as the Local Artist's fair is taking place on the same street and it will be very crowded!

C) If you are looking for another dessert option that is more Israeli, head down the main aisle of the Shuk and look for Halva ​​Kingdom. Halva traditionally should be Gluten Free, and the Halva from Halva Kingdom is made of Sesame and honey as it should be. However, there are lots of "Mix in's" so beware and be sure to ask the guys. I don't know how truthful or knowledgeable they are, so perhaps stick to the safer varieties with fruit or nuts or the plain halva. They have two locations in the Shuk but they offer the same things.

If you magically have 45 minutes:

A) If you've got a hankering for some Hummus, you can go to Hummus Magan David and get some Hummus to go. Head back down the main aisle of the Shuk to about the middle, where you can find it's blue facade on your right side. The safest way to get some is to grab some out of their fridge (it doesn't leak), but if their fridge is empty as it often is, get in line and order your hummus to go "lacachat." You'll have to make a few choices....Egg? Fava beans? Tahini? Spicy? Pickles? Onions? Oil? I recommend no egg (the eggs here are hit or miss), no fava, and no oil. The containers to go tend to leak a little so be prepared for a mess. They'll give you two regular pita's to go with it- you can either say no thanks or give them to a friend.

B) If you're a sucker for a ridiculously full stomach, head back down the main isle, past the Halva and Hummus, until you come to a colorful stand on your left with a large sign proclaiming them "Arepas Venezuelan." At Arepa's, they give you enough food for an army, but they truly taste extraordinary so if you've somehow got room, take a taste. They take about 10 minutes to make and usually have a line, so be sure you've got enough time. Although incredibly delicious, they aren't an Israeli Speciality and that why they are low on the list.

And of course, if you're full and satisfied after your Falafel and Malabi and you've got time left, you can always enter the Shuk and browse the nicknacks, trinkets, and souvenirs, or grab some other snacks for yourself like fresh fruit, cheese, or olives. However, I know from experience that the short amount of time you have to see the Shuk goes by in the blink of an eye, so be prepared to run around if you want to opportunity to taste the Gluten Free Varieties of these Israeli Specialities while on your trip! Have fun and Happy Eating!

Are you a tourist with more time to peruse the fantastic offerings in and around Shuk HaCarmel? Stay tuned for the next installment of Choose Your Own Shuk HaCarmel Gluten Free Adventure where I'll outline some of the best sit down options and other finds too! If you're looking for advice before I have it published, feel free to contact me. When it's up, I'll be sure to link to it right here!

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